There's no place like home...there's no place like home...there's no place like home

This is it...the LAST official post on our Saigon Sortie blog is here!  I left with a teaser in the last post mentioning that we were shortly moving back to the USA!  We are officially back, shipment from Vietnam in casa and working on blending back into American normalcy.  At first it was the excitement about what car to get (!!), near daily trips to Trader Joes and Target, and enjoying walks with Ginger (not fearing dog-napping).  I had a hard time trying to remember that we were not on a “holiday” (I shouldn’t be binging on my favorite foods every day) and then of course there is all the fun of phone plans, insurance, wifi, moving, changing addresses…etc, etc. 

In a weird way its almost like we never left.  It has been easier than I thought to blend back in, but there are certainly aspects of daily life that I compare/contrast.  For sure it’s the price differences on just about everything…I find myself saying “how much?!” way too often.  Woes of a developed country!  Then there are really surprising events like lines.  And even more surprising when people stay in line.  Or when traffic yields to pedestrians?!  Then there is that weird way that Americans allow for personal space.

Lines are one of those unwritten rules that we all follow on an almost daily basis-right? You get in line by standing behind the last person currently there.  Then you wait your turn in a generally orderly fashion. Simple enough.  I rarely thought about how well the line method worked until I was confronted with a dysfunctional line (aka-line in Asia). It's not that there isn't such a thing in Vietnam or I didn’t stand in them daily-It's almost as if they would look at a line and think, ‘oh, but that cannot possibility be something I need to do’ and step in wherever may be most convenient for them while looking around obliviously like ‘why are all these people standing around in my way?’  Sometimes I knew they did it because they didn't think I was going to say anything (or they would just pretend to not understand me when I did confront them shaking their hands back and forth which by now I assume means "I’m going to pretend I don't know what you mean because I can" versus baby sign language which means “I’m full”…it can get confusing…)  Clayton has almost literally picked one or two ladies up placing them out of the line and pointing to the back (though they generally would just file in right behind us instead). At other times depending on where you were on the never ending Asia culture shock roller coaster it could involve a gentle tap on the shoulder to loud outbursts and frantic waving. None of which seemed to uproot them or particularly bother them because of course the line is not for them.  When in Rome...do as the Romans do? However, by this time we have seen all of Curb Your Enthusiasm and it was far more entertaining instead to use the rule: WWLDD (What would Larry David do?) So, Clayton would entertain himself with a few of the following:

1) Standing in line, but not moving forward until absolutely necessary. The Vietnamese also have an annoying tendency to crowd you in while in line thinking that the less space there is between the front of the line and them the better, regardless of the actual number of people. It's very entertaining to watch them huff and puff, try to crane around you and push you forward. But that would be like trying to move a concrete statue-their 5'2" frames don't hold a candle to Clayton the Intolerant.

2) Getting out of the airplane isle when the plane lands and actively blocking all those behind from barging forward before all those in the seats to your right and left have had the chance to flee. The sheer pressure and grumbling that builds up behind Clayton is a sight...try it next time you fly to Asia!  It does become somewhat difficult as the seatbelt signs apparently don't apply to them. The minute the plane is on the ground all you hear is a clatter of seatbelts unfastening and overhead doors opening. By the time we even start taxing to the gate they are crammed into the isles. I think the flight attendants have simply given up trying to get them to stay seated until the captain has turned OFF the sign. To get out we literally have to physically hold back the hordes that are pushing out. You would think there was a fire...every time we landed. But the really frustrating part is as soon as they have fled the actual plane itself and are on the boarding ramp their pace changes to snail crawl and you would be surprised how oblivious they are to anyone wanting to pass.  Really miss that…these polite American flights are just too predictable.

3) Facing death with a march across the Saigon streets. A must do though is to arrogantly hold out your hand to any oncoming traffic and point like you mean it. It's rare that I actually really feel like I am in any serious danger crossing the street, but my heart always skips a few beatings as I take my first step into the mobs of unorganized traffic and motorbikes heading my way. One of our friends, even after 2 years of living here found himself being hand led across the street by a 70 year old lady after hesitating a bit too long. Guess she must have felt sorry for him because he said she was laughing the whole way!

For all the fuss moving back has been, it has been equally exciting and sad at the same time.  It’s always difficult to say goodbye, but it was especially difficult leaving Vietnam.  When we left Oregon, we knew we would be back in the US yearly and eventually would be moving back…but for Vietnam…that was not as clear.  The friends you make as expats are more like your family and saying goodbye, not knowing when the next time you will see them again was heartbreaking.  Hands down the WORST part of being an expat.  All the other stuff ranges from exciting to manageable headache. 

We did manage to use Clayton’s birthday as an excuse for one last Asian adventure to Chiang Mai, Thailand (northern Thailand).  He rented a motorcycle (was the ONLY time we did that in Asia) and we rode up into the foothills surrounding Chiang Mai, stopping at a temple, taking some pictures, and buying a few keepsakes from the local Hmong tribes.  

We also spent a day at Patara Elephant Farm participating in their “Elephant for a day” program.  We first learned a bit about what a healthy elephant looks like (and what their poo feels like, looks like and smells like…turns out its important with all creatures), then gave them a quick rub down and shower.  The majority of the day was spent walking/riding them on a hike to the river where they got an official bath (which we excitedly joined in for) and an amazing picnic lunch.  The day ended with meeting the babies of the farm and watching them interact with each other.  I actually had no idea what to expect but they act just like any other baby!  They climb all over everything and everyone, collide and run into things, stumble over anything in their path, roll around in the water and irritate the adults.  So cute!  It was an unreal experience…though I’m sure animal rights activists would likely be speechless at the amount we were able to do with our “own” elephant.  However I genuinely felt like it was an amazing way to learn about these creatures.  An elephant really never forgets!!  Mine jogged right over to me after lunch (of course I had a few treats for her…) but she knew exactly who I was.  I can’t say I was AS excited to see a fully grown elephant jogging towards me-it was a bit unnerving.  But I do have to say that I hope I NEVER forget!

Unfortunately I can’t (yet) call Portland home.  I was accepted into a sports medicine residency program in Boise, Idaho and will be located there for the next year.  The good news is that following the program I will be able to call myself a board certified specialist in sports medicine.  Bad news is that I get paid ½ as much.  I call it an investment!  Clayton calls it ridiculous on all accounts: moving away from Portland, taking Ginger with me (that’s most of it), taking a job that doesn’t pay well…  But for all his arguments, he has been a good sport about it (no pun intended-ha!!)  I said, ‘it’s like having a vacation home for him…in Boise, ID!’

He has very quickly adjusted to life back on “Nike campus”.  He is now working in the innovation category-which from what I can understand is like the future of Nike industry.  Oooohhhh.  But according to what he says, it appears that he really loves his new job.  Many perks like adequate air conditioning (he no longer needs a fan at his desk), great lunches (compared to the mystery Asian factory cuisine-very small chance of parasites here), and a creative/innovation atmosphere (whatever you need to spark creativity!)

Maybe we will call Asia home again someday…who knows!  But until then-we are excited to call America HOME once again!

Rents in Asia!

After 2 years of "making all the mistakes and learning all the scams", both sets of parents decided to take the plunge hoping that after all this time we have figured a few things out and will direct them to the best places....which partially happened....  But I think more than anything, Clayton and I were just trying hard not to "pop" their Asia bubble as it was a first for both sets on this side of the world. Common phrases were things like "it looks just like Mexico!" (Ummm...yeah....) Or "Oh these ladies are all so nice" (and coincidentally ALL selling something ... Eye roll here) or "this beef pho is so good" (though it's probably not actually beef you are eating...) I'm not sure if we accidentally said those responses out loud but we generally tried to keep our cynical judgements silent to at least try to give the impression of good hosts ;)

Clayton's parents and sister, Corie, arrived during the week of TET just in time to see the downtown decorations and madness that HCMC D1 becomes. They made their way onto Hanoi, Sapa and Hoi An. Plenty of time trekking, picture taking and pho eating was had. I was able to meet them in Siem Reap, Cambodia for a few days of temple hopping and Khmer cuisining.  After spending 2+ weeks traveling with a crew of 7 (2 of Clayton's family friends-Dave and Cathy- bravely signed up to join in the circus) his parents went onto Thailand solo. I have no idea why they didn't invite everyone on this trip as well-they couldn't have been tired of traveling with ALL of us?! But we didn't let them leave without the obligatory warnings of: Watch your bags! Don't take Bangkok taxi's!!  Don't pay more than $2 for faux ray bans! They succeeded in returning to HCMC with all limbs intact and stories of amazing underwater creatures viewed first hand! (Yes!! Maggie went diving! And now is hooked :)

Shortly after Clayton's friends and family departed Asia, my parents rolled into town accompanied with the hopes of enough free suitcase space to fit all the goodies they were about to find in the 4 different countries of Asia we squeezed in. They made the obligatory Vietnam trip: Saigon > Hanoi > Sapa > Halong Bay > Hoi An (whew...) which was my idea for a good 1 week summary of the best of Vietnam. It was a plane to train to boat kind of an itinerary and I doubt they even remember all that happened save the "threading" lady in Hoi An who happily removed as much of Bill's random hairs until he cried mercy and stormed out. But I think they have a few photos to jog the memory bank.

Clayton and I joined them for a combined trip to Bali where we spent 2 nights in a surf camp and too much time on a surf board (or in my case getting tossed off the board). Then 3 blissful days in Ubud amongst the rice paddies and terraced rice fields with a day trip to a world heritage site and terraced paddies that date back to 1051!! We immediately followed that with a crazy trip to Bangkok (because when is a trip to Bangkok ever NOT crazy!?) We coincided our trip with Thailand's New Years water festival -Songkran- which pretty much means that the entire city becomes one giant water gun fight. Don't have a water gun? Just use a bucket! If you are part of the fire department? Knock everyone down with your hoses! But it really was that crazy...getting ambushed with water guns in the middle of the city! Nobody was safe...

We stopped by HCMC for a quick re-fuel (and laundry stop) then headed out for one last trip to Palawan, Philippines for Julie and Bill's first experience scuba diving as well!  It was difficult to stay out of that water-whether we were diving or snorkeling...just being able to plop ourselves down in the ocean in front of the (private) island resort with some pretty spectacular coral and ocean life was addicting. The sunsets were spectacular, the water amazing turquoise, teal and blue and white sand beaches were a sight we hope to remember through many a cold winter...

They were successfully able to fit all that 3 weeks worth of shopping allowed into their suitcases and waved their goodbyes to pho and motorbikes last week.

The remainder of our spring is going to be a mess of traveling with the basketball team for Chantel, finishing up projects and starting new ones for Clayton, packing up, shipping out Ginger, saying too many "until the next times", and finally boarding out flight bound to Portland on May 31st (!!) For those of you holding your breath for our return to Portland, you may start requesting reservations on our social calendar at any time :)

We have had an exciting, educational, passport filled, and "character building" time in Vietnam and Asia. We will be leaving too many good friends, breaking up Ginger's burgeoning courtship with Pono, and coming to terms with the realization that we will no longer have domestic help... Goodbye to the sweaty days, hoards of motorbike traffic, and miscommunications. Hello again to doing laundry, cooking, and layers of jackets, scarves, gloves, boots! It's a sweet and sour time that we are equally sad to leave but looking forward to exciting days ahead!

Clayton almost immediately begins work at Nike at an exciting new job in the  "innovation" category though will likely take necessary time to gorge on Chipotle, fill up shopping carts at Trader Joes, and make a beeline with fly rod in hand to the Oregon rivers. I will spend a few weeks catching up with friends and family, helping the rents to clean house and finally settling in Boise, Idaho for a year in a sports medicine residency program! I'm sad to wait another whole year to officially move back to Portland...but I think Boise will suffice for now ;)

Strike A Pose!

I know, it’s been too long-but I really have been struggling to come up with some great new culture shockers.  I don’t really think we have been here that long (now over 2 years!!), but more the general habit of ignoring what is going on versus the open mouthed gaping that we have slowly grown out of.  However, recently I was reminded of a MUST post update.

I'm sure your first thought of Asian tourists is tangled with large cameras constantly clicking away, taking pictures of anyone and anything. This is not a stereotype-trust me... The practice of picture taking is something of a necessity here and good luck staying out of the camera lens if you are camera shy or are tragically not photogenic. (Though I have some suggestions for that a little later).  I would say I probably average smiling for multiple pictures a day if I am in the company of Asians. What they do with all these pictures aside from posting them on Facebook I really have no idea.
 There was recently an entertaining article in one of the local expat magazines about the fanatical photography amongst the Vietnamese and continual posting of these often slightly scandalous pictures online (largely through social media such as Facebook).  The pictures are generally taken of just one individual in any number of poses, but always strategically posed. (See the suggested poses here in case you needed a few more ideas. This I took directly from suggestions given in the article, so obviously it’s legit.)  It’s a bit of pipe dream for any Vietnamese girl age 12-60 to model.  I suppose you could consider all these pictures practice? When the magazine writer asked a few locals why they take so many pictures of themselves, they said things like "everyone else also does it, I want to as well" or "why wouldn't I want to take many pictures of myself if I think I'm pretty".  It seems to reason then that there would be a lot of little Narcissus clones peering at their reflections in the water and jumping off bridges as well.

On most every occasion I find myself thinking...you have got to be kidding me...are they for real?! But yes, apparently it's totally normal to want to take only pictures of yourself (strategically posed of course). While I find myself shooing other people away from beautiful vistas to get a non-inhabited photo, you would find the exact opposite here in Asia. What is more beautiful than a spotless expanse of beach? A picture of you plopped smack in the middle of it in a sultry pose of course! How about an ancient temple? Duh-so much more idyllic with someone standing in front of it. Now, I'm not saying that its ridiculous to do ANY pictures with people in them, but if you find yourself in the exact same pose in front of EVERY landmark...then I think we might label that a severe case of ridiculousness.  At times though I do have to admit that I am also guilty of standing in front of a landmark-how else am I supposed to prove that I went to Soi Cowboy in Bangkok?!  Just don't go jumping off any bridges around HCMC-I have seen couches floating down the rivers before and I think that would really mess you up if you hit one...

The temptation to document this though is often far too great and on a number of occasions we have found ourselves taking a picture of others taking pictures... If nothing else, just to prove that this really happens!  You will notice that I have caught not one but 2 couples taking pictures (this was in HCMC during the TET festival).  I cropped it into multiple different pictures, so you could see the close up! (You are welcome) This was likely only one of 100’s of pictures that they took of each other that day.  I really don't feel badly posting these either because I'm sure if they knew their pictures were here they would be thrilled to get them published on the internet.

If faux modeling is your thing, then be sure to plan your next trip to Asia!  You will fit right in ;)

C & C do En Zed

En Zed

Or to those of us who speak regular English, that would be New Zealand, land of The Lord of the Rings, Lion, Witch and the Wardrobe, and The Hobbit.  But...also some of the most diverse landscapes in the world due to its crazy volcanic remains, glacial gluttony and mash of tectonic plates (those are the technical descriptions, right Lauren?)  This also happens to be part of the backwards side of the world where they drive on the wrong side of the road. Which means that nobody ever knows when we are turning because Clayton turns on the windshield wipers instead of the turn signal.  In his words, "WHY wouldn't all steering columns be the same?!" (But said in an exasperated high pitched wail after tricking a car behind that we were turning when in fact he just needed to wipe the windshield).

They do speak funny here though-"z" is pronounced "zee" to normal people. To them, it's "zed".  So, they would actually say "Zed Zed Top."  What?  A common term I find particularly entertaining is the word "jumper" as in "it was so cold I had to wear my jumper". You had to wear what?! They make those in adult sizes too?? I didn't realize that cute little onesies were appropriate adult wear. But what they refer to as a "jumper" is what we call a "sweatshirt"...I think (and hope). I still could never refer to my sweatshirt as a "jumper" without cracking up.

Here is a riddle for you...what would be your first reaction if someone says to you, "How are you going" (which actually sounds like "Haw'yr goin'")? My first time went something like, "uh, stammer, stammer, going, stammer... (And this is where I replay what they just said and think-are they asking where I'm going or how I'm going...where? Do I say what kind of vehicle I'm going in or where I'm going next? Or in this specific case-which was at a restaurant-were they asking what I was going to eat?) Now I'm an experienced En Zed traveler (though they also use this phrase in Australia) and after many an awkward reply, now stick to a standard answer of "good!" Then I equally stump them by adding on a: (good) thanks! And how are you?  I wonder if they also think, 'is that the end of the question? Is she adding something else onto the end...how are you...what? Going, doing...etc, because their answers are usually a mix of confusion and stammers as well. Makes everything equal again!

We booked our tickets to En Zed in July and I (being the obsessive travel coordinator and controller) confirmed all our travel reservations by August in fear that the busiest season here would quickly book up for January (their "summer").  I expected plenty of summer traffic, busy towns and crowded streets. But-did you know that the population of New Zealand-both islands (!!) is ONLY 4.4 million?  That's half the population size of New York City itself.  So the only crowded areas were the sheep populated grassy hillsides of the central interior. In fact the population of sheep is somewhere around 60 million...a ratio of 15:1..wow.  It was not crazy summer tourist busy-by my standards-which was wonderful!

So here is a little run down of our adventures.  We flew into Christchurch, then drove around the perimeter of the south island ending again in Christchurch.  Unfortunately we didn't see any of the north island-but we had to leave something for a future trip!

Day 1-3 was Clayton's "mancation". He spent 2 full days catching slimy fish, stomping up and down rivers, and whipping a fly rod around (without any accidental human hookings).  I treated myself to lots of naps, some good reading, running through the mountains (they kicked my ass) and a few bottles of wine...by myself (it was amazing).

Day 4 we drove to the southwest side of the island, a scenic 600 km trek-which by US standards is a normal days drive. Here, it's only a drive crazy Americans would do (it makes up about a quarter of the South Island).  I'm pretty sure we saw more sheep that day than we have ever seen put together in our years of existence.  Today was also the first day we filled the gas tank.  After doing the liters to gallon conversion came out to...drum roll...$8 USD per gallon. Wha?? That combined with a 6 pack of microbrews costing an average of $15-17 USD was enough to make me think...God Bless America! Say what you will but the average salary in NZ is no bigger (if not less) than an average American salary.  Islands are expensive!!

Day 5 and 6 were spent in the Fiordland national park (think Lord of the rings...but real life!!)  Unfortunately En Zed didn't account for our presence as vacationers and rained 2/3 days that we were there. However, luck was upon us one day and we were able to take our much anticipated helicopter flight through Doubtful Sound. When I wasn't afraid I was going to pee my pants it was pretty damn AMAZING. Definitely the highlight of the trip. The helicopter dropped us at the top of Mt. Luxmore-a popular overnight destination for backpackers, holding 60 bunks. We passed many a "tramper" hauling their packs up 14 km to the lodge while we lazily "tramped" on down.  I didn't expect it to rain so much though (which was why I didn't even bring my raincoat). Hello NZ?? We are on VACATION.  The country did redeem itself with enough microbrews and wine to keep me happily occupied while we waited things out.  We had to cancel our kayaking plans the second day due to heavy rains, closed roads and flooding, but it turns out that wine and beer tastes the same whether you are stuck inside playing cards or sitting alfresco on a nice summers day.

Day 7 and 8 started a little iffy when we found out that the only road north was closed due to...all the unusual summer rain. A bridge had been washed out, so our choices were to take a 9 hour detour or change our plans for the next few days. I would say that on a scale of 1-10 of my abilities to "go with the flow," I'm a -2. I suck at it. When we heard that we needed to change our trip because of the road closure I probably reacted the same as if I had heard that the sky is falling.  So we cancelled all our bookings and tours, re-booked at another inland location and headed north in hopes that the road might just happen to open by the time we dawdled there. Just as we had given up and were making the final decision to head on our detour...the road miraculously opened...at 4 pm, closing at 9 pm. So we cancelled our re-booking, re-booked our original bookings and sped off towards the Fox and a Franz Joseph glaciers. Apart from the general appeal of snow topped mountains and glaciers, these 2 are special in that they are 2 of only 3 glaciers in the world that butt up against a rainforest running to the sea (the only other one is located in Argentina).  Although they are only 2 of some 3000 or so glaciers in En Zed, their location and speed makes them big hits on the tourist track. If there was a glacial race, these would be the winners, traveling 6-7mm in a day! Whoa-right? This also meant nothing to me except that they are therefore way more dangerous compared to other glaciers which are dangerous in their own right. To me then it seems that this may not be the best area to try out ice climbing for the first time. So because I'm such a pansy the closest we got to the glacier was the area roped off by the national parks to corral all the other tourists and keep them from doing something stupid like falling down a crevasse or getting impailed by falling ice chunks or rocks. (Which has happened.)

 

Day 9-12 started with a picturesque drive north along the west coast. We ended in the Abel Tasman area where we planned on spending 4 days kayaking, hiking and biking our way around the region. The weather had other plans for us... For an area of NZ that gets the most sun of any other, not to mention the fact that it was the middle of summer and the region was in a drought...to get hit with 3/4 of our days with RAIN was a blessing only to the farmers in the area... Day 1 in the area: kayak trip cancelled due to rain. In lieu of that we walked around the valley laden, grape vine strewn, olive, cherry and apple tree orchard melting pot of land with a goal of hitting up 3 wineries on foot. We arrived at the first one and plunked ourselves down in the garden for a bottle and a cheese plate. Our timing and my sense of distance was a bit off to meet our goal, so although we walked the entire 15 or so km of country roads, didn't make it to either of the other 2 wineries in time. We did have a good wine buzzed walk back with many a baaa, mooo and snort from animals along the way. Day 2: tried our luck at kayaking again...no cancellations except for a cloudy forecast and more rain starting in the afternoon. We set out, covered the recommended distance in about 1/4 of the time intended, saw families of seals flapping around along the shore, gawked at a few stingrays and jellyfish following alongside our boat and managed to avoid capsizing for the entire 20+km of the way and arrived back just in time for the rain to start. So, instead of a bike ride we opted to drive into town for dinner and to see The Hobbit (we were in NZ anyway-would be a shame to miss it on a big screen!) Day 3: woke up to rain...rain all day...bike plans cancelled again...so spent the day winery hopping via motorized vehicle instead.  It was probably good because Clayton would have been really tired carrying all 9 of the wine bottles we bought that day had we been on bicycle. :)

Day 13-15...raise of hands for those who have ridden a bicycle loopy? How about wine loopy? It's super fun, right?! Until you get 50 meters past your last stop of the day (6 in total...) and realize that you are not Lance Armstrong and that was not the 7 km left to go (though it seemed like suuuuuch a ways even at that point.) Then...you realize that you have had to pee since about 2 wineries ago, but conveniently forget as soon as you leave-your excitement of the next destination taken over for the warnings from your bladder.  At that point the breezes turn into gale force winds (or at least that is what you tell yourself as to WHY your legs only seem to pedal at snail pace) and panic sets in that by the time you get back home (still another 6.5 km to go) you may very well have ridden off your wine buzz!! Whose idea was it to ride bikes around to all the wineries anyway?! Oh, right...that was me... 

End of the journey...full perimeter of NZ South Island...check...day 16-18 in Christchurch. Due to the massive earthquake in Feb of 2010, followed by the many aftershocks, a large part of the central business district was abandoned, crumbling and shut down. Signs of the earthquake are still everywhere-old brick buildings secured with what looks like monstrous zip ties, demolished piles of wood and brick, fences EVERYWHERE. To quote Clayton "it looks like the set of one of those post apocalypse zombie movies"-stores abandoned, but still mannequins, shelves and posters littering the buildings. . It's definitely a good time to be in the fence business... First day there I took advantage of some fresh air park trails, then we headed into town to a local fair trade coffee shop in route to the "temporary" CBD shopping area of shipping container turned shops and restaurants. It was initially a way for the shops to get up and running again, though turned into a more permanent funky architectural mall. After that it was a soccer game, lots more cappuccinos and a few more glasses of wine and micro brews to round off the trip.

Christchurch did give us a little flavor of its quakiness...while we were sitting in the theater, the largest aftershock since last July of 2012 hit (4.6 was officially recorded). It came right at a fairly climatic part...and I thought for a second...wow! This 3-D is AMAZING...then I immediately registered...this is not a ride. Had anyone else around me started panicking-I may have too. But just seemed like another day to them I suppose... I do like being on solid ground better.

New Zealand...you did not disappoint!  (Expect maybe the unseasonable rain). Until the next time!!

Our pictures are in the first slideshow on the left.  Apologies in advance...we got a new camera...